It all started a few weeks ago: a very long southern Italian lunch in Milan. My friends parents were visiting from Puglia, and invited me for a delicious lunch, which started at 14.00 and finished…well I left early from the table at 18.30! A lunch full of fresh tasty food and theatrical explanations of numerous stories. One of these stories was about a British lady who moved to Brindisi in Puglia, and had a series of disasters. The whole village was involved in her unfortunate experiences. I had the pleasure to meet the actors in this drama story in a recent trip to Brindisi in Salento.

The Sanasi family welcomed me with open arms into their beautiful villa on the sea, at Campo del mare (comune of San Pietro). The people of this village are worlds apart from the Milanese, with respect to food, culture and time management.

My typical day staying with the Sanasi’s:

I would be woken up by the smell of strong coffee and not just by the Sanasi family, but friends who were passing by for an early morning bicycle ride, and more often that not a family friend who had brought fresh vegetables and fruit picked from his garden. 

Breakfast consisted of different Pugliese biscuits accompanied by a selection of home made marmalades made by mama Sanasi.

5 steps away from the villa is the beautiful beach of Campo del Mare. Most of the days would be spent walking along the coastline, dipping in and out of the sea, and basically talking to my friend’s fellow villagers!

An Indian girl in this small village is a quite a rare thing. My friend decided to tell everyone I was an Indian princess, and everyone somehow believed this! I had women coming up to me saying “oh what a honor to be in your presence.” I decided to try an Indian hair removal technique “threading” on my friend. Word got into the village that you could remove hair with a piece of thread. Each day someone from the village would pop by to the villa to figure out what this magical thread was all about!

Lunch was always back at the villa. How is that simple roasted peppers, variety of green beans, and a selection of tomatoes with a drizzle of olive oil from their local producer and oregano from their garden just tasted amazing? I had brought some grapes from Milan, which I had during my journey. I was very embarrassed when they were arranged on the same plate as the grapes from the Sanasi’s garden. My grapes looked like green seeds, and their grapes looked like plums!

Someone on the table tried my grapes, and the response was; “Mama, where did you buy these plastic grapes…they are horrible”. There is no way you can compare food freshly grown from a Pugliese garden to northern Italy’s supermarkets. The lunch menu everyday was different, delicious and heavenly. Being a vegetarian I really had no problems at all. Well that is a lie. Everyday my friend’s dad would go fishing and bring back the catch of the day. Mama Sanasi would then cook this up and beautifully present her masterpiece. For the first time in my life I thought, am I missing out?

After a heavy lunch a siesta was an absolute must, followed by a coffee at either the villa, or one of the cousin’s houses. Stories would be told, gossip would be shared, and the evening menu would be planned. I would often help my friend’s mum with the evening dinner. I learnt how to make foccacia and pizza. Delicious!

One of my favorite Pugliese dishes: Friseli. Very hard bread cooked twice. Dip it into cold water for a few seconds and dress it like a bruschetta. Whilst having dinner we would hear the procession of the Madonna. So everyone would leave the table and run outside to welcome the statue. Friseli in one hand I would run too!

Top 2 highlights from my Puglia experience:

1) Park at Torre Guace, pay 1 euro and squeeze as many people as you can in a shuttle bus which then transports you to a peaceful and beautiful paradise. The nature reserve of Torre Guace takes crystal clear turquoise water to another dimension.

2) An evening stroll through Lecce. They say Lecce is Salento’s Florence.

Wondering through Lecce’s baroque style buildings, churches and squares was wonderful. Unlike Florence and Rome, which are inundated with tourists, Lecce still maintains its local charm. The town is very much alive, with people just strolling along with a gelato in hand and taking in the town’s beauty.

I am already planning my next trip to Puglia to discover the region’s gems. Puglia is a like a country of its own, on its own clock, with food incomparable to the rest of Italy (bar Tuscany) and made up of people who are so open, friendly and loving.

Whilst I am Milan bound during the week, any chance I get to escape the heat and the mosquitoes in Milan I take it. I have been to Val D’Aosta five times now, yet each time I have had a completely different experience. From skiing, to relaxing at Terme di Pre Sant Didier, to reading books in a beautiful lodge over looking the Alps. This time I decided to work my muscles and go on a weekend hiking trip in the national park: Gran Paradiso.

Just two hours away from Milan you can find unspoilt nature within the valleys that make up the Gran Paradiso. Quite simply paradise. It is very rare that I can forget absolutely everything and just focus on the present moment. Gran Paradiso is one of those places were you are taken back by the beauty and the tranquility, such that you forget absolutely everything.

We started our trek in Cogne, a former iron ore mining village and worked our way up through the valleys to Lauson situated at 2588m. There waiting for us was our mountain hut: Vittorio Sella Hut. After a warm hearty meal and a decent night sleep we  worked our way back down the valleys to finish with a lunch along a stream running through Valnontey.

The trek up to Lauson should typically take 3 hours. We took about 5 hours as we stopped for quite a filling Italian style picnic and a nap  along a stream! The trek up is quite difficult, but it is totally worth it. Being surrounded by endless greenery, in the aroma of wild herbs and flowers, spotting exotic butterflies and then every now and again dipping your feet in streams that run through the valleys.

I can not think of a better way to spend a weekend and all at such an economical price. For 60 euros you can stay a night stay at Vittorio Sella, which includes a hearty dinner, drinks, breakfast and a panini to take away. You can buy bed sheets for 3 euros, a 5 minute hot shower costs 5 euros and a disposable “towel” costs 2 euros. By no means luxury accommodation, but as a hiker spending minimal time in the hut, Vittorio Sella has everything you need.

Vittorio Sella, Gran Paradiso National Park, Lauson’s Valley, 003916574310, Cogne – Italy

Don’t you just love it when you stumble upon something that you almost never expected? In our search for an Indian restaurant in Durban, one wrong turn here, another wrong turn there, we came across something that looked some what like a cafe. Had it not been for the food photographer, carefully arranging and rearranging food creations to get the picture perfect photo, we probably would have walked straight pass this little gem.

Neil Roake, author of the cook book “Shiny Happy People”, has created an inspiring and uplifting cafe: Freedom.

It is one of those places that draws you in slowly. First we were intrigued by the food photographer and the wonderful display of cakes on the planks of wood outside the cafe. A few steps later we discovered a converted freight container which was jazzed up and carefully created into a modern cafe.

This then lead us on to the small yet very cute garden, at the end of which was the open kitchen where we could see Neil himself cooking up some delicious dishes.

As much as we wanted Indian food, Freedom has a character that one can not escape. Once you enter the garden you almost feel part of the set up, as if  you had personally been invited to Neil’s kitchen. The atmosphere is fresh and informal. This newly opened cafe gives you a sense of a start up, and if like me you love food then Freedom gives you so much inspiration to start up your own kitchen!

If you have time on your hands Freedom is a perfect place to sit back, sip a cup of tea and just watch Neil’s assistants creatively work their way around the kitchen. And you will have to sit back for quite a while; in the true slow food culture way. It is totally worth the wait. Fresh ingredients prepared with passion and displayed creatively. I had a red pepper and paprika soup. Simple, but by far the best red pepper and paprika soup I have ever had. The menu is contemporary – perfect for a light yet filling lunch.

If you are looking for a place to stay near Florida Road I highly recommend The Concierge which is in front of Freedom. The hotel carries on the boutique feel of the cafe.

You feel secluded and in a special place, yet only a few roads away from Florida Road. Both Freedom and The Concierge are slightly above average Durban prices; but that is the price you pay for an intimate setting with careful attention to design.

Freedom Cafe, 36 Campbell Avenue, Greyville, 0027313094453, Durban – South Africa

I had been talking about this trip for almost a year and before I knew it I was on the plane to one of the most exciting World Cups I think I will ever experience.  This time it’s for Africa. The spot light was on Ghana and everyone was hoping, praying, dreaming that this time an African team would make it at least to the semi finals. 

July 2nd 2010, Ghana vs. Uruguay. I am not exactly a football expert nor even an amateur, but this has to be one of the best atmosphere’s I have ever experienced in a stadium. Practically everyone I knew asked me to get them a vuvuzela. I really had no idea what all the fuss was all about. From the second I caught sight of Soccer City in Joburg all I could see, hear and feel were vuvuzelas. A loud constant horn coming from these plastic instruments in all sizes and colours decorated with every single African flag. I felt like I had a vuvuzela in my stomach and my whole body was pounding with this horn sound!

This was not a game just about Ghana vs. Uruguay. This was a game representing every single African nation. A scan across the stadium and every flag, every face painted, every vuvuzela was an African one. Ok there were about 50 Uruguayans..but clearly the minority amongst 90,000 fans! This was the first time I ever felt that a continent was so united, through every pass, through every miss and through ever chance. This was Africa’s chance.

Just before half time Ghana scored. After numerous tries they did it! And that was the most amazing feeling. The happiness across everyone’s face was incredible. I had horns blowing in all directions and within seconds there were African dancers dancing to Waka Waka.  Ghana left the first half in a very positive light, a sense of relief and strong optimism before the second half.

When Uruguay scored after half time, the stadium came to a holt. A horrible shock and sudden silence filled the stadium. It was a vuvuzela stopper. After 30 minutes of extra time, Africa’s football destiny was in the hands of nerve wracking penalties. I was so scared I could barely watch the strikers. The supporters stood united; it felt like the whole stadium was holding hands in a round circle, hoping and praying for every Ghanaian striker. And when Ghana’s last striker missed it felt like the circle broke and the hearts, dreams and hopes of every African nation was shattered.

Leaving the stadium was so depressing. The vuvuzela horn was almost no where to be heard. However those few great spirited supporters still blew their horn to salute Ghana for their great effort and perseverance.

England are out and god knows what happened to previous world cup champions Italia. But not all is bad in Milano. I just had a delicious lemon granita at Grom. The thought of eating a heavy meal in this heat makes me sick! Luckily I live on Corso Sempione, home to a cluster of great bars all of which do a great aperitivo.

The thing I love about Italians is that everything revolves around food. The focus of evening drinks is not the British happy hour concept where you drink as much as you can whilst it is cheap. In Milan most bars display a large buffet of  food including salads, pastas, cheeses and couscous. The aperitivo concept: pay 8 euros for a cocktail and eat all you want!

Corso Sempione is great as you really are spoilt for choice between Bhangra Bar, Living, Deseo, Jazz bar, Blight or Roialto and Bar Milano within walking distance from  Corso Sempione. My favourite is Blight which is just next to a spa. It has a sense of freshness and you can easily get a platter of fruit and great non alcoholic cocktails. If you are going in a large group and where initmate conversations are not necessary then Deseo has a good vibe, and is probably the most popular. Bar Milano and Roialto are great spaces giving a hotel lobby feel, but the vegetarian options are limited.

A cocktail, good food or simply people watching from the bars that sprawl out on to the street, Corso Sempione is great for all.

Elizabeth Gilbert could have extended her stay in Italy and prayed and loved there too…you don’t need to go all the way to India to pray and Indonesia to love! Rome was love at first sight for me. There really is no other city that compares to a walking museum of breath taking monuments and ruins. In Rome you don’t need to go to a certain place to find something historic, or find a great restaurant, or people watch. Where ever you go you will be marvelled by Rome’s extraordinary beauty. The best part of Christian Bonetto’s Lonely Planet guide on Rome is, “ditch the guidebook, slip into a laneway and trust where the city takes you”

My 4 day Roman affair was more influenced by my taste buds and my moods as oppose to a very structured perfect itinerary.

Day 1

On arrival in Rome and after relaxing in our boutique hotel Prime Hotel Saint John (near the Colosseo) my first mission was to eat! After walking around the area, and ignoring any place where we saw a Nikon or Canon camera DSLR resting on a Rome guide book, we found a great very local Roman bakery, Panificio Sanchini (Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano, 26/32, 0039670476020). Wow, the focaccia’s were delicious…very thin base with fresh tomatoes and finely chopped parsley marinated in garlic, olive oil and chili. Totally hit the right spot!

Just a 10 minute walk away and there you have it a Roman masterpiece like none other: the Colosseo built in 70 to 82 AD. History buff or not I highly recommend getting a guide here. To appreciate the scale and significance of the Colosseo there is no better way than having a guide explain this to you. The added advantage of this is you get to jump the really long queues and can get access into the Forum as well.

The beauty of Rome is that after seeing one masterpiece you have little time to absorb it as a few foot steps later you are presented with yet another jaw dropping work of art. For me the Roman Forum was truly magical. Every day Romans drive past a complex of ruins, temples and basilicas, which make up the 21st Century Roman landscape and vistas. Give yourself at least 2 hours to wander and explore.

There is perhaps no other city in the world where the 10 commandments have been adapted to motor vehicles. One shall not show off in one’s car, use it as an occasion of sinning or abuse it as an expression of power and domination. Vatican city, a sovereign state of its own, is an absolute must. We had booked an appointment for 20.00 at the Vatican museum, which is a perfect time limited to few tourists and an opportunity to view the St Peters Basilica with the backdrop of candles and a stunning sunset.

I had read about it at school, watched programs about the genius Michaelangelo, but never had I thought I would stand in the centre of the Sistine Chapel and be surrounded by and overwhelmed by the great works of  Michaelangelo. No need to get a guide here…I am almost certain there will be a passionate American Catholic, who will be more than willing to share their knowledge with you.

After the Colosseo, Roman Forum and Vatican museum my stomach was crying and before I knew I found myself in L’Archetto (Via dell’Archetto, 26, 003966789064) on a side street near the Trevi fountain.

114 types of spaghetti and 38 pizzas organised under creative headings infused with ingredients from vodka to walnuts! For starters we had a collection of typical Roman fried vegetables. Greasing our stomachs we enjoyed delicious spaghetti and reflected on a great day!

To end the first day in Rome and my last day as 25, we walked a few streets down to the Trevi fountain. I was shocked both by its beauty and the number of people sprawling themselves on and around the fountain. At midnight, with my back towards Trevi fountain I wished away 25 and welcomed 26, throwing a coin backwards into the fountain. I know that is pretty cheesy…but in the moment it was perfect!

Day 2

Bursting with energy and the desire to explore Rome, our first stop was the Pantheon. One thing I really appreciate about Rome is that most of the places you visit are interlinked. In the Vatican Museum I was stunned by Raphael’s famous School of Athens painting and in the Pantheon I was paying my respect at his tomb. The dome of this temple turned church is really breath taking. I would love to be inside the Pantheon when it is raining and see the rain fall through the centre of the dome into what I imagine a long column.

Just a few metres away lies Piazza Navona, which sits on the ruins of an ancient arena. A great rest spot, sitting by the fountains and absorbing the atmosphere before hitting the next spot.

When in Rome do as the Romans do. Well I went with a Milanese, met up with another Milanese, and her Roman boyfriend showed us how to eat Cacio e Pepe like the Romans do. We headed to Piazza Venezia to wait for my friends, but got a little distracted, by Victor Emmanuel’s enormous monument. Climbing right to the top of the monument and looking down on Rome was quite an experience.

My friends took us to a very local restaurant Cacio e Pepe in Prati, (Via Avezzana, 11, 003963217268). The size of the restaurant grew or shrunk  depending on whether its neighbouring businesses were open. Luckily the post office was closed so the restaurant was extended on to the foot steps of the postal office! Simple, tasty and a really true Roman experience. I never knew home made egg spaghetti with cheese and pepper could be so delicious. A lazy roman lunch requires a good marochino to follow. So we drove up Gianicolo hill, and enjoyed a great marochino and took in Rome’s beautiful view from it’s highest hill.

I love small boutiques and local artists who scatter their work in less commercial places. So my friends dropped us off in Monti where we walked through the shaded streets and went from boutique to boutique.

Rome in June can get very hot, and if like me you have a certain threshold for heat, find your nearest museum and I guarantee you there will most likely be a great exhibition you can enjoy under air conditioning. We were lucky enough to see Mimmo Jodice’s great photography at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni.

To end a great birthday I was taken to probably one of the best restaurants I have been to in Italy, Enoteca Ferrara (Piazzu Trilussa 41 – Via del Moro 1/A, 0039658333920), in the heart of bustling Trastevere. I have to admit when I first entered I thought is that it…is this where I am celebrating my birthday? But then we went down a few steps and up a stair case to find a beautiful elegant earthy restaurant. The waiter put what looked liked 2 times the size of my sister’s wedding album on the table. No photos, but a carefully selected list of Italian wines. I could write pages about how good the food was…but I will not spoil the surprise for you. All I can say is that I normally do not enjoy gnocchi, but I tried Ferrara’s gnocchi with truffles and I was literally transported to another world. A meal I will remember for the rest of my life. As you can imagine the deserts were fantastic..from crepes stuffed with hot apricots to light fluffy lemon mouse cheese cakes. Even if you don’t go to the Pantheon..go to Ferrara!

Day 3

After endless walking, hot weather and breath taking sites, we needed some time out. We needed a lazy Sunday that started off with  a delicious brunch. A friend had recommended Gusto (Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9, 003963226273) to me, which reminded me of a mix of Indian, Brazilian and Italian culture.

Pick up a steel plate (Thali), choose from a wide selection of Italian food, fresh salads, vegetables and meat, and then weigh your “thali” in the Brazilian per kilo style at the counter. The atmosphere at Gusto is great, uplifting and light, with a mix of locals, artists painting away, and yes a few tourists. A great lazy brunch.

A lazy Sunday brunch has to be followed by a gelato. I am really picky with gelato and settle for non other than the best. So I did my research and headed to Ciampini (Piazza S Lorenzo in Lucina, 29, 003966876606). Just to not make ourselves feel guilty on the cultural front we walked over to the Spanish steps and indulged in our gelatos. As great as the steps are I was distracted by my creamy soft pistachio gelato, which  I am sad to say is better than my favourite gelaterias in Milan. After absorbing the grandness of the steps  we followed the Channel and Gucci bags down Via dei Condotti to get a glimpse of Rome’s home to fashionistas.

A perfect Sunday requires a siesta in a good park and so we headed to Villa Borghese and fell asleep in the huge park surrounding the Villa. Unfortunately we did not get to go into the Villa, which I have heard is well worth it. Make sure you book a few weeks in advance for the Villa Borghese, especially during the peak season.

Day 4

I am not a Catholic nor  am  I religious, so it is quite strange that my Roman affair started at the Vatican City and ended there. I spent the last day actually in Vatican city, absorbing the beauty and symbolism of St Peter’s Square and the St Peter’s Basilica. It is an absolute must to get a guide in St Peter’s Basilica, one of the most important places of worship for Catholics. The stories behind each statue, wall and painting is really incredible. You can easily spend hours and hours here. In hind sight I wish I had booked tickets for the Vatican gardens in advance…no doubt they would be beautiful.

My Roman affair ended with a last rendezvouz with my creamy light pistachio gelato near the Spanish steps.  The thought of going back to Milan almost made me cry. Rome is just Rome. Beautiful and breath taking in every sense.

Number 1 rule for doing business in Turkey: make sure you have 1 to 2 cups of chai on a customer visit and never say no to being fed every 1.5 hours! Before 2pm I was already on my third food stop and I was quite simply stuffed from all the food and getting quite worried about my no gym all about food lifestyle!

But then I was taken to Palet, a Turkish patisserie and my eyes and palette took over. Unlike traditional Turkish patisseries that bring  serious thoughts of guilt due to the very visible sugar and butter dripping out of the numerous delights, Palet has a touch of European elegance in its presentation that some how works the sweets into a piece of art that you quite simply can not say no to.

Though tempted by the baklavas, cakes, pastries, rice puddings and ice creams…I managed to resist and instead opted for a selection of Palet’s chocolates.  My favourite: a fresh cherry soaked in some sort of spirit and spices, coated in rich dark chocolate. Without being too unprofessional I slipped back into my chair and enjoyed the bursts of juice coming out of the cherry. Just delicious.

Palet,  Horosan Sokak No: 2 Gaziosmanpaşa,  0090312 437 20 21, Ankara – Turkey

The best thing about travelling around Turkey on business, is that all Turkish clients go out of their way to feed you and at some of the best local places.

In Konya I was taken to Feslegen. My client was shocked to find out that I was vegetarian and to ensure I was fed well, he ordered every great vegetarian option on the menu. And oh my god were they great! I normally chat away whilst dining…not at Feslegen! I was just amazed at how fresh the ingredients were and how each and every vegetable was delicious.

A simple green salad with capers, carrots, tomatoes and sweetcorn was so juicy and sweet. The fresh yogurt was like cutting into gelato with a spoon. The sauteed ladyfingers and egg plant were hitting the spicy spot. The presentation of the sun dried tomatoes was so appetizing. The hot yogurt soup was almost better than Indian kadhi. And all this food combined with frothy home made ayran (turkish lassi) was just perfect!

And then it was time for desert. One trouser button had to open as there no way I was leaving without trying the pumpkin halvah in a sesame sauce with Eastern black walnuts (the fruit of walnuts). Divine and surprisingly not too sweet.

If you are ever in Konya for business or visiting Mevlana’s tomb, check out Feslegen.

Feslegen, Mahmuriye Mah, Istasyon Ferit Pasa Cad, No 27, 00903323222203

6 Turkish cities, a dip in the sea and a hammam treatment later I have finally managed to sit down in front of my lap top. Last weekend my parents came to visit me in Istanbul. Where do you take a mother who is an incredible cook and a father who has high food standards? In the city of kebabs I needed to find a great vegetarian option that would impress my parents.

So I took them to Kosebasi, one of my favourite restaurants in Istanbul. On paper Kosebasi is not the restaurant I would normally pick: a Turkish chain restaurant famous for its kebab. In reality it is an elegant South Anatolian restaurant, pleasing both vegetarians and carnivores.

Before getting a chance to look at the menu, a waiter brought a wide selection of mezzes for us to choose from. They all looked so fresh and colourful. The Turkish salad - toros was to die for. Finely chopped parsley, rocket, mint and tomatoes in a mix of spices and sour pomegranate sauce with hot nan/puffed bread.

We filled ourselves on eggplant in a yogurt sauce, fresh green peppers, kisir (cracked wheat) and Turkish pastries.

For main course admittedly there is not much variety for vegetarians. Nevertheless the chef made us Turkish style pizza stuffed with smoked aubergine, which we enjoyed with fresh Ayran (Turkish equivalent of lassi). My mum was in heaven. For my mum the smoked aubergine was like eating Indian baingan bharta, and the “Turkish pizza” was like Indian rotlo. My mum was determined to learn the recipe for this dish!

For desert we indulged in a semolina halvah stuffed with ice cream and a rice pudding very similar to the Indian kheer. For the rest of the trip my mum compared every meal to this one! If you plan to go to Kosebasi don’t go on the first night, as every meal after may be a disappointment.

If you are a carnivore every Turkish person will tell you that Kosebasi is a great place. If you are a vegetarian, trust me the mezzes are the best in town. Kosebasi is quite pricey for Turkish standards, but given the great food and the elegant local atmosphere I think its totally worth it. Make sure to book in advance.

Kosebasi, Çamlık Sokak No:15 3.Levent,  00902122702433, Istanbul – Turkey

If I had not been taken to this cute  and small enoteca, Ebrezza, I most certainly would have walked straight past it. Ebrezza is a charming down to earth enoteca. No frills, no posh table ware, and no snobbish sommeliers who pretend to smell their wine acting like they know what they are talking about!

My friend and I were welcomed by the owner and were taken upstairs to the three small tables that were surrounded by book shelves cluttered with a mix of books, wines and photos. Though minimalistic there was a rustic and warm feeling to the place.

Once we had chosen our wine from the endless list of Italian wines split by region, we shouted out our order over the stairs to the owner. And when the wine came, oh my god it was amazing! I choose the Bolgheri, a Tuscan wine which has now replaced my previous favourite wine Nero d’Avola. Three Bolgheri wines later, we moved downstairs to enjoy the live jazz music.

What was supposed to be a quick drink before going out for dinner, ended up being a long evening of fun and laughter over great wine and delicious bruschetta, piadina and a selection of cheeses. There is something about Ebrezza that just makes you stay on. Within ten minutes of being there, it all felt familiar, we could hear every one’s conversations and I almost felt part of them.

I will definitely be going back to Ebrezza and I hope to work my way through their extensive wines. For a great evening make sure to go on a Thursday night where there is live jazz music.

Ebrezza, Via Garigliano 5, 0039245480138, Milan – Italy