Elizabeth Gilbert could have extended her stay in Italy and prayed and loved there too…you don’t need to go all the way to India to pray and Indonesia to love! Rome was love at first sight for me. There really is no other city that compares to a walking museum of breath taking monuments and ruins. In Rome you don’t need to go to a certain place to find something historic, or find a great restaurant, or people watch. Where ever you go you will be marvelled by Rome’s extraordinary beauty. The best part of Christian Bonetto’s Lonely Planet guide on Rome is, “ditch the guidebook, slip into a laneway and trust where the city takes you”
My 4 day Roman affair was more influenced by my taste buds and my moods as oppose to a very structured perfect itinerary.
Day 1
On arrival in Rome and after relaxing in our boutique hotel Prime Hotel Saint John (near the Colosseo) my first mission was to eat! After walking around the area, and ignoring any place where we saw a Nikon or Canon camera DSLR resting on a Rome guide book, we found a great very local Roman bakery, Panificio Sanchini (Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano, 26/32, 0039670476020). Wow, the focaccia’s were delicious…very thin base with fresh tomatoes and finely chopped parsley marinated in garlic, olive oil and chili. Totally hit the right spot!
Just a 10 minute walk away and there you have it a Roman masterpiece like none other: the Colosseo built in 70 to 82 AD. History buff or not I highly recommend getting a guide here. To appreciate the scale and significance of the Colosseo there is no better way than having a guide explain this to you. The added advantage of this is you get to jump the really long queues and can get access into the Forum as well.
The beauty of Rome is that after seeing one masterpiece you have little time to absorb it as a few foot steps later you are presented with yet another jaw dropping work of art. For me the Roman Forum was truly magical. Every day Romans drive past a complex of ruins, temples and basilicas, which make up the 21st Century Roman landscape and vistas. Give yourself at least 2 hours to wander and explore.
There is perhaps no other city in the world where the 10 commandments have been adapted to motor vehicles. One shall not show off in one’s car, use it as an occasion of sinning or abuse it as an expression of power and domination. Vatican city, a sovereign state of its own, is an absolute must. We had booked an appointment for 20.00 at the Vatican museum, which is a perfect time limited to few tourists and an opportunity to view the St Peters Basilica with the backdrop of candles and a stunning sunset.
I had read about it at school, watched programs about the genius Michaelangelo, but never had I thought I would stand in the centre of the Sistine Chapel and be surrounded by and overwhelmed by the great works of Michaelangelo. No need to get a guide here…I am almost certain there will be a passionate American Catholic, who will be more than willing to share their knowledge with you.
After the Colosseo, Roman Forum and Vatican museum my stomach was crying and before I knew I found myself in L’Archetto (Via dell’Archetto, 26, 003966789064) on a side street near the Trevi fountain.
114 types of spaghetti and 38 pizzas organised under creative headings infused with ingredients from vodka to walnuts! For starters we had a collection of typical Roman fried vegetables. Greasing our stomachs we enjoyed delicious spaghetti and reflected on a great day!
To end the first day in Rome and my last day as 25, we walked a few streets down to the Trevi fountain. I was shocked both by its beauty and the number of people sprawling themselves on and around the fountain. At midnight, with my back towards Trevi fountain I wished away 25 and welcomed 26, throwing a coin backwards into the fountain. I know that is pretty cheesy…but in the moment it was perfect!
Day 2
Bursting with energy and the desire to explore Rome, our first stop was the Pantheon. One thing I really appreciate about Rome is that most of the places you visit are interlinked. In the Vatican Museum I was stunned by Raphael’s famous School of Athens painting and in the Pantheon I was paying my respect at his tomb. The dome of this temple turned church is really breath taking. I would love to be inside the Pantheon when it is raining and see the rain fall through the centre of the dome into what I imagine a long column.
Just a few metres away lies Piazza Navona, which sits on the ruins of an ancient arena. A great rest spot, sitting by the fountains and absorbing the atmosphere before hitting the next spot.
When in Rome do as the Romans do. Well I went with a Milanese, met up with another Milanese, and her Roman boyfriend showed us how to eat Cacio e Pepe like the Romans do. We headed to Piazza Venezia to wait for my friends, but got a little distracted, by Victor Emmanuel‘s enormous monument. Climbing right to the top of the monument and looking down on Rome was quite an experience.
My friends took us to a very local restaurant Cacio e Pepe in Prati, (Via Avezzana, 11, 003963217268). The size of the restaurant grew or shrunk depending on whether its neighbouring businesses were open. Luckily the post office was closed so the restaurant was extended on to the foot steps of the postal office! Simple, tasty and a really true Roman experience. I never knew home made egg spaghetti with cheese and pepper could be so delicious. A lazy roman lunch requires a good marochino to follow. So we drove up Gianicolo hill, and enjoyed a great marochino and took in Rome’s beautiful view from it’s highest hill.
I love small boutiques and local artists who scatter their work in less commercial places. So my friends dropped us off in Monti where we walked through the shaded streets and went from boutique to boutique.
Rome in June can get very hot, and if like me you have a certain threshold for heat, find your nearest museum and I guarantee you there will most likely be a great exhibition you can enjoy under air conditioning. We were lucky enough to see Mimmo Jodice’s great photography at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni.
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To end a great birthday I was taken to probably one of the best restaurants I have been to in Italy, Enoteca Ferrara (Piazzu Trilussa 41 – Via del Moro 1/A, 0039658333920), in the heart of bustling Trastevere. I have to admit when I first entered I thought is that it…is this where I am celebrating my birthday? But then we went down a few steps and up a stair case to find a beautiful elegant earthy restaurant. The waiter put what looked liked 2 times the size of my sister’s wedding album on the table. No photos, but a carefully selected list of Italian wines. I could write pages about how good the food was…but I will not spoil the surprise for you. All I can say is that I normally do not enjoy gnocchi, but I tried Ferrara’s gnocchi with truffles and I was literally transported to another world. A meal I will remember for the rest of my life. As you can imagine the deserts were fantastic..from crepes stuffed with hot apricots to light fluffy lemon mouse cheese cakes. Even if you don’t go to the Pantheon..go to Ferrara!
Day 3
After endless walking, hot weather and breath taking sites, we needed some time out. We needed a lazy Sunday that started off with a delicious brunch. A friend had recommended Gusto (Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9, 003963226273) to me, which reminded me of a mix of Indian, Brazilian and Italian culture.
Pick up a steel plate (Thali), choose from a wide selection of Italian food, fresh salads, vegetables and meat, and then weigh your “thali” in the Brazilian per kilo style at the counter. The atmosphere at Gusto is great, uplifting and light, with a mix of locals, artists painting away, and yes a few tourists. A great lazy brunch.
A lazy Sunday brunch has to be followed by a gelato. I am really picky with gelato and settle for non other than the best. So I did my research and headed to Ciampini (Piazza S Lorenzo in Lucina, 29, 003966876606). Just to not make ourselves feel guilty on the cultural front we walked over to the Spanish steps and indulged in our gelatos. As great as the steps are I was distracted by my creamy soft pistachio gelato, which I am sad to say is better than my favourite gelaterias in Milan. After absorbing the grandness of the steps we followed the Channel and Gucci bags down Via dei Condotti to get a glimpse of Rome’s home to fashionistas.
A perfect Sunday requires a siesta in a good park and so we headed to Villa Borghese and fell asleep in the huge park surrounding the Villa. Unfortunately we did not get to go into the Villa, which I have heard is well worth it. Make sure you book a few weeks in advance for the Villa Borghese, especially during the peak season.
Day 4
I am not a Catholic nor am I religious, so it is quite strange that my Roman affair started at the Vatican City and ended there. I spent the last day actually in Vatican city, absorbing the beauty and symbolism of St Peter’s Square and the St Peter’s Basilica. It is an absolute must to get a guide in St Peter’s Basilica, one of the most important places of worship for Catholics. The stories behind each statue, wall and painting is really incredible. You can easily spend hours and hours here. In hind sight I wish I had booked tickets for the Vatican gardens in advance…no doubt they would be beautiful.
My Roman affair ended with a last rendezvouz with my creamy light pistachio gelato near the Spanish steps. The thought of going back to Milan almost made me cry. Rome is just Rome. Beautiful and breath taking in every sense.
