I had been planning a trip to Cinque Terre for almost a year now. The much talked about Cinque Terre, one of Italy’s gems is a must. Imagine this: Trekking through 5 towns on the Italian Riviera that are carved into the steep vineyard coastline over looking the Mediterranean sea. Now most treks I do are a hard slog with only water and energy bars to get you through. The Cinque Terre trek from Monterosso to Riomaggiore is a food lover’s haven.

Just when you think you are going to pass out from the heat and the steep inclines, before you know it you are welcomed by one of the five charming towns where you can dig into a hearty pasta, sip wine and wipe off the sweat! Serious trekkers may not approve of stopping every so often to savour some tiramisu or try some Limoncello. But thats the beauty of this trek – work some sweat, treat yourself to a gelato and work your way to the next town.

When to go and for how long: May or September – 2 days

The best time to go is in May or September. If you want to avoid that bunch of American tourists who you will inevitably bump into in every town, in every cafe and every non touristy restaurant, avoid June to August! The ideal time to spend in Cinque Terre is 2 days. Enough to do a 5 hour trek, re visit the towns you simply fell in love with, and perhaps even squeeze in some time on the beach. 1 day is too rushed and if you are with your brother then 3 days may be a bit too much!

Where to stay: Pietra di Mare – Monterosso

Monterosso was my favourite town; quaint andcharming, with a lovely vibe. We stayed in a cute B&B in the heart of the town called Pietra di Mare (Via San Martino, 2, 00393461097338), for 110 euros a night. When we arrived there was a sign outside the B&B saying we should go to the owner’s cousin’s B&B to get the keys to our room. She was not there and the nearby shop told us she was in a bar. Trolley bag in hand I went from bar to bar trying to figure out who was Sabrina’s cousin. So don’t freak out if you can’t find the owner or her cousin! Sabrina (the owner), gives you a breakfast token to the bar opposite her apartment.

Skip the free breakfast, and instead walk down a few metres to Pasticceria Lauraon Pussu du Pudesia, 55. If you have a sweet tooth, plan a minimum of 30 minutes to an hour here. Every 10 minutes fresh, beautifully crafted pastries come from Laura’s kitchen across the street. If you are like me, you simply want to try it all!

What to do:

1) Work your muscles and see the best of  Cinque Terre

Starting from Monterosso and following the trail till Riomaggiore is the single best way to see Cinque Terre.  Wake up early, get an 8 euro ticket from the tourist point for a pass into the national park that allows you also to use the train running through the 5 towns.Everyone talks very fondly of the Lover’s walk from Manorola to Riomaggiore.   I have to admit after all the hype and the previous towns, I was expecting a little more. Perhaps it had to with the fact that I was with my brother and we were surrounded by couples making out and locking padlocks to everything they saw!

The most breath taking views are when you approach a town. There you are, standing amongst steep vineyards, and in the distance is a colourful town almost hanging off a cliff. Make sure you take time to break the trek and wander the streets of the towns you pass through.

If walking 9km is too much for you, there is a train service that runs through the towns, so you can easily hop on or off whilst exploring the towns.

2) Dip biscotti in Sciacchetra

Sciacchetra is a sweet white wine of the Cinque Terre region, produced from the best white grapes being left to dry in the sun. Unique in colour, taste and fragrance. The aroma of apricots and acacia honey, the colour of antique gold and the perfect sweetness to end a meal. Try Sciacchetra at Enoteca da Eliseo (Piazza Matteotti, 3, 0039187817308) in Monterosso. A very cute wine bar that serves an endless list of wines, Limoncello and Sciacchetra.

3) Find a rock and relax

Soak in the sun and find a rock hanging over the cliffs between or at one of the towns. If you want  a sandy beach – Monterosso is your best bet.

4) Trade service for an amazing view or a great pizza

Perhaps the world’s worst service at Trattoria Billy (Via Rollandi, 122, 0039187920628) in Manorala accompanied with one of the best views I have experienced whilst eating a Genovese pasta. If you can hack the service then sitting on a little terrace that is literally hanging off the cliff and gazing into the vineyards against the back drop of the Mediterranean sea, is worth it! If you are looking for a big, crispy, mouth watering pizza then head to Pizzeria La Smorfia in Monterosso(Via Vittorio Emanuele, 73, 0039187818395)

Cinque Terre is a true Italian gem. Great food, stunning views, beautiful sea, and quaint colourful towns. What more could you ask for?

There are a few things I want to do before leaving Italy. One of them is to understand who actually supports a leader like Berlusconi? Today Berlusconi held a rally just down my road in the Castello Sforzesco.

This was the first time I felt very uncomfortable in Italy. I was surrounded by over 50′s cheering and praising Berlusconi. Flags waving high, hands clapping, and faces looking up and high into their leader’s eye. I felt sick. What is wrong with these people? How can they possibly believe what he is saying? Combatting organised crime…seriously!

Take a look at the people, the demographics and things become a little clearer.

Yes the average age of the supporters at this rally was 55. The women…I am sure they would make their way back stage at some point.

There was not a sign of one person under 30. I really did search, moved across through the crowds, but no sign of some educated youth to challenge this awful propaganda. (I later found out that the frustrated youth of Italy were protesting the streets of Italy for “No Berlusconi Day”)

20 minutes into the rally, I had to leave. Even though I had a Sicilian Cannolli to sweeten my judgment I was furious and at the same time saddened that the future of this beautiful country was in the hands of a play boy and there is a large part of the population that looks up to him. There was only one way to end this experience…a glass of Barola at Cantine Isola.

It all started a few weeks ago: a very long southern Italian lunch in Milan. My friends parents were visiting from Puglia, and invited me for a delicious lunch, which started at 14.00 and finished…well I left early from the table at 18.30! A lunch full of fresh tasty food and theatrical explanations of numerous stories. One of these stories was about a British lady who moved to Brindisi in Puglia, and had a series of disasters. The whole village was involved in her unfortunate experiences. I had the pleasure to meet the actors in this drama story in a recent trip to Brindisi in Salento.

The Sanasi family welcomed me with open arms into their beautiful villa on the sea, at Campo del mare (comune of San Pietro). The people of this village are worlds apart from the Milanese, with respect to food, culture and time management.

My typical day staying with the Sanasi’s:

I would be woken up by the smell of strong coffee and not just by the Sanasi family, but friends who were passing by for an early morning bicycle ride, and more often that not a family friend who had brought fresh vegetables and fruit picked from his garden.

Breakfast consisted of different Pugliese biscuits accompanied by a selection of home made marmalades made by mama Sanasi.

5 steps away from the villa is the beautiful beach of Campo del Mare. Most of the days would be spent walking along the coastline, dipping in and out of the sea, and basically talking to my friend’s fellow villagers!

An Indian girl in this small village is a quite a rare thing. My friend decided to tell everyone I was an Indian princess, and everyone somehow believed this! I had women coming up to me saying “oh what a honor to be in your presence.” I decided to try an Indian hair removal technique “threading” on my friend. Word got into the village that you could remove hair with a piece of thread. Each day someone from the village would pop by to the villa to figure out what this magical thread was all about!

Lunch was always back at the villa. How is that simple roasted peppers, variety of green beans, and a selection of tomatoes with a drizzle of olive oil from their local producer and oregano from their garden just tasted amazing? I had brought some grapes from Milan, which I had during my journey. I was very embarrassed when they were arranged on the same plate as the grapes from the Sanasi’s garden. My grapes looked like green seeds, and their grapes looked like plums!

Someone on the table tried my grapes, and the response was; “Mama, where did you buy these plastic grapes…they are horrible”. There is no way you can compare food freshly grown from a Pugliese garden to northern Italy’s supermarkets. The lunch menu everyday was different, delicious and heavenly. Being a vegetarian I really had no problems at all. Well that is a lie. Everyday my friend’s dad would go fishing and bring back the catch of the day. Mama Sanasi would then cook this up and beautifully present her masterpiece. For the first time in my life I thought, am I missing out?

After a heavy lunch a siesta was an absolute must, followed by a coffee at either the villa, or one of the cousin’s houses. Stories would be told, gossip would be shared, and the evening menu would be planned. I would often help my friend’s mum with the evening dinner. I learnt how to make foccacia and pizza. Delicious!

One of my favorite Pugliese dishes: Friseli. Very hard bread cooked twice. Dip it into cold water for a few seconds and dress it like a bruschetta. Whilst having dinner we would hear the procession of the Madonna. So everyone would leave the table and run outside to welcome the statue. Friseli in one hand I would run too!

Top 2 highlights from my Puglia experience:

1) Park at Torre Guace, pay 1 euro and squeeze as many people as you can in a shuttle bus which then transports you to a peaceful and beautiful paradise. The nature reserve of Torre Guace takes crystal clear turquoise water to another dimension.

2) An evening stroll through Lecce. They say Lecce is Salento’s Florence.

Wondering through Lecce’s baroque style buildings, churches and squares was wonderful. Unlike Florence and Rome, which are inundated with tourists, Lecce still maintains its local charm. The town is very much alive, with people just strolling along with a gelato in hand and taking in the town’s beauty.

I am already planning my next trip to Puglia to discover the region’s gems. Puglia is a like a country of its own, on its own clock, with food incomparable to the rest of Italy (bar Tuscany) and made up of people who are so open, friendly and loving.

Whilst I am Milan bound during the week, any chance I get to escape the heat and the mosquitoes in Milan I take it. I have been to Val D’Aosta five times now, yet each time I have had a completely different experience. From skiing, to relaxing at Terme di Pre Sant Didier, to reading books in a beautiful lodge over looking the Alps. This time I decided to work my muscles and go on a weekend hiking trip in the national park: Gran Paradiso.

Just two hours away from Milan you can find unspoilt nature within the valleys that make up the Gran Paradiso. Quite simply paradise. It is very rare that I can forget absolutely everything and just focus on the present moment. Gran Paradiso is one of those places were you are taken back by the beauty and the tranquility, such that you forget absolutely everything.

We started our trek in Cogne, a former iron ore mining village and worked our way up through the valleys to Lauson situated at 2588m. There waiting for us was our mountain hut: Vittorio Sella Hut. After a warm hearty meal and a decent night sleep we  worked our way back down the valleys to finish with a lunch along a stream running through Valnontey.

The trek up to Lauson should typically take 3 hours. We took about 5 hours as we stopped for quite a filling Italian style picnic and a nap  along a stream! The trek up is quite difficult, but it is totally worth it. Being surrounded by endless greenery, in the aroma of wild herbs and flowers, spotting exotic butterflies and then every now and again dipping your feet in streams that run through the valleys.

I can not think of a better way to spend a weekend and all at such an economical price. For 60 euros you can stay a night stay at Vittorio Sella, which includes a hearty dinner, drinks, breakfast and a panini to take away. You can buy bed sheets for 3 euros, a 5 minute hot shower costs 5 euros and a disposable “towel” costs 2 euros. By no means luxury accommodation, but as a hiker spending minimal time in the hut, Vittorio Sella has everything you need.

Vittorio Sella, Gran Paradiso National Park, Lauson’s Valley, 003916574310, Cogne – Italy

Elizabeth Gilbert could have extended her stay in Italy and prayed and loved there too…you don’t need to go all the way to India to pray and Indonesia to love! Rome was love at first sight for me. There really is no other city that compares to a walking museum of breath taking monuments and ruins. In Rome you don’t need to go to a certain place to find something historic, or find a great restaurant, or people watch. Where ever you go you will be marvelled by Rome’s extraordinary beauty. The best part of Christian Bonetto’s Lonely Planet guide on Rome is, “ditch the guidebook, slip into a laneway and trust where the city takes you”

My 4 day Roman affair was more influenced by my taste buds and my moods as oppose to a very structured perfect itinerary.

Day 1

On arrival in Rome and after relaxing in our boutique hotel Prime Hotel Saint John (near the Colosseo) my first mission was to eat! After walking around the area, and ignoring any place where we saw a Nikon or Canon camera DSLR resting on a Rome guide book, we found a great very local Roman bakery, Panificio Sanchini (Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano, 26/32, 0039670476020). Wow, the focaccia’s were delicious…very thin base with fresh tomatoes and finely chopped parsley marinated in garlic, olive oil and chili. Totally hit the right spot!

Just a 10 minute walk away and there you have it a Roman masterpiece like none other: the Colosseo built in 70 to 82 AD. History buff or not I highly recommend getting a guide here. To appreciate the scale and significance of the Colosseo there is no better way than having a guide explain this to you. The added advantage of this is you get to jump the really long queues and can get access into the Forum as well.

The beauty of Rome is that after seeing one masterpiece you have little time to absorb it as a few foot steps later you are presented with yet another jaw dropping work of art. For me the Roman Forum was truly magical. Every day Romans drive past a complex of ruins, temples and basilicas, which make up the 21st Century Roman landscape and vistas. Give yourself at least 2 hours to wander and explore.

There is perhaps no other city in the world where the 10 commandments have been adapted to motor vehicles. One shall not show off in one’s car, use it as an occasion of sinning or abuse it as an expression of power and domination. Vatican city, a sovereign state of its own, is an absolute must. We had booked an appointment for 20.00 at the Vatican museum, which is a perfect time limited to few tourists and an opportunity to view the St Peters Basilica with the backdrop of candles and a stunning sunset.

I had read about it at school, watched programs about the genius Michaelangelo, but never had I thought I would stand in the centre of the Sistine Chapel and be surrounded by and overwhelmed by the great works of  Michaelangelo. No need to get a guide here…I am almost certain there will be a passionate American Catholic, who will be more than willing to share their knowledge with you.

After the Colosseo, Roman Forum and Vatican museum my stomach was crying and before I knew I found myself in L’Archetto (Via dell’Archetto, 26, 003966789064) on a side street near the Trevi fountain.

114 types of spaghetti and 38 pizzas organised under creative headings infused with ingredients from vodka to walnuts! For starters we had a collection of typical Roman fried vegetables. Greasing our stomachs we enjoyed delicious spaghetti and reflected on a great day!

To end the first day in Rome and my last day as 25, we walked a few streets down to the Trevi fountain. I was shocked both by its beauty and the number of people sprawling themselves on and around the fountain. At midnight, with my back towards Trevi fountain I wished away 25 and welcomed 26, throwing a coin backwards into the fountain. I know that is pretty cheesy…but in the moment it was perfect!

Day 2

Bursting with energy and the desire to explore Rome, our first stop was the Pantheon. One thing I really appreciate about Rome is that most of the places you visit are interlinked. In the Vatican Museum I was stunned by Raphael’s famous School of Athens painting and in the Pantheon I was paying my respect at his tomb. The dome of this temple turned church is really breath taking. I would love to be inside the Pantheon when it is raining and see the rain fall through the centre of the dome into what I imagine a long column.

Just a few metres away lies Piazza Navona, which sits on the ruins of an ancient arena. A great rest spot, sitting by the fountains and absorbing the atmosphere before hitting the next spot.

When in Rome do as the Romans do. Well I went with a Milanese, met up with another Milanese, and her Roman boyfriend showed us how to eat Cacio e Pepe like the Romans do. We headed to Piazza Venezia to wait for my friends, but got a little distracted, by Victor Emmanuel‘s enormous monument. Climbing right to the top of the monument and looking down on Rome was quite an experience.

My friends took us to a very local restaurant Cacio e Pepe in Prati, (Via Avezzana, 11, 003963217268). The size of the restaurant grew or shrunk  depending on whether its neighbouring businesses were open. Luckily the post office was closed so the restaurant was extended on to the foot steps of the postal office! Simple, tasty and a really true Roman experience. I never knew home made egg spaghetti with cheese and pepper could be so delicious. A lazy roman lunch requires a good marochino to follow. So we drove up Gianicolo hill, and enjoyed a great marochino and took in Rome’s beautiful view from it’s highest hill.

I love small boutiques and local artists who scatter their work in less commercial places. So my friends dropped us off in Monti where we walked through the shaded streets and went from boutique to boutique.

Rome in June can get very hot, and if like me you have a certain threshold for heat, find your nearest museum and I guarantee you there will most likely be a great exhibition you can enjoy under air conditioning. We were lucky enough to see Mimmo Jodice’s great photography at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni.

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To end a great birthday I was taken to probably one of the best restaurants I have been to in Italy, Enoteca Ferrara (Piazzu Trilussa 41 – Via del Moro 1/A, 0039658333920), in the heart of bustling Trastevere. I have to admit when I first entered I thought is that it…is this where I am celebrating my birthday? But then we went down a few steps and up a stair case to find a beautiful elegant earthy restaurant. The waiter put what looked liked 2 times the size of my sister’s wedding album on the table. No photos, but a carefully selected list of Italian wines. I could write pages about how good the food was…but I will not spoil the surprise for you. All I can say is that I normally do not enjoy gnocchi, but I tried Ferrara’s gnocchi with truffles and I was literally transported to another world. A meal I will remember for the rest of my life. As you can imagine the deserts were fantastic..from crepes stuffed with hot apricots to light fluffy lemon mouse cheese cakes. Even if you don’t go to the Pantheon..go to Ferrara!

Day 3

After endless walking, hot weather and breath taking sites, we needed some time out. We needed a lazy Sunday that started off with  a delicious brunch. A friend had recommended Gusto (Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9, 003963226273) to me, which reminded me of a mix of Indian, Brazilian and Italian culture.

Pick up a steel plate (Thali), choose from a wide selection of Italian food, fresh salads, vegetables and meat, and then weigh your “thali” in the Brazilian per kilo style at the counter. The atmosphere at Gusto is great, uplifting and light, with a mix of locals, artists painting away, and yes a few tourists. A great lazy brunch.

A lazy Sunday brunch has to be followed by a gelato. I am really picky with gelato and settle for non other than the best. So I did my research and headed to Ciampini (Piazza S Lorenzo in Lucina, 29, 003966876606). Just to not make ourselves feel guilty on the cultural front we walked over to the Spanish steps and indulged in our gelatos. As great as the steps are I was distracted by my creamy soft pistachio gelato, which  I am sad to say is better than my favourite gelaterias in Milan. After absorbing the grandness of the steps  we followed the Channel and Gucci bags down Via dei Condotti to get a glimpse of Rome’s home to fashionistas.

A perfect Sunday requires a siesta in a good park and so we headed to Villa Borghese and fell asleep in the huge park surrounding the Villa. Unfortunately we did not get to go into the Villa, which I have heard is well worth it. Make sure you book a few weeks in advance for the Villa Borghese, especially during the peak season.

Day 4

I am not a Catholic nor  am  I religious, so it is quite strange that my Roman affair started at the Vatican City and ended there. I spent the last day actually in Vatican city, absorbing the beauty and symbolism of St Peter’s Square and the St Peter’s Basilica. It is an absolute must to get a guide in St Peter’s Basilica, one of the most important places of worship for Catholics. The stories behind each statue, wall and painting is really incredible. You can easily spend hours and hours here. In hind sight I wish I had booked tickets for the Vatican gardens in advance…no doubt they would be beautiful.

My Roman affair ended with a last rendezvouz with my creamy light pistachio gelato near the Spanish steps.  The thought of going back to Milan almost made me cry. Rome is just Rome. Beautiful and breath taking in every sense.

A hard day of work and all you want to do is get a good take away pizza, enjoy a Coke and watch an episode of Desperate Housewives. What could brighten up my day more than going to my local pizzeria and getting a simple yet delicious pizza?  I remember the day’s when I used to go to Papa Js’ or Pizza Hut in London, and it was a quick pizza popped into a cardboard box, and in hind sight it was horrible!

Quite a different experience in Milan at Fratelli la Buffala, my local pizzeria. I chat away to the friendly staff in the pizzeria as I wait for my pizza. When I get home I open the box and the oh so sweet chef made my pizza in the shape of a heart. Can you imagine Pizza Hut doing that?

Italians love their food and they are so passionate. Mix great food, passion and a cute chef and you have a heart shaped pizza!

I recently attended a web seminar on Food and Travel hosted by Waitrose, Tripbod and Slow Food. I thought that I was one of the few who obsesses about food when travelling. It turns out that tasting local food, which is produced and sourced locally is becoming a must experience even for the average traveller.

To find the best Italian products under one roof, I headed to Eataly in Turin. In Oscar Farinetti’s open planned space, I felt like I was doing my Saturday morning grocery shopping at an open market in a piazza. The difference  was that at Eataly I had an extensive choice of products with information about the region and supplier of the products. I  also got to taste the end product of some of the ingredients I was buying at Eataly’s eight themed food stations.  However I was not impressed with the vegetable food station. Not quite sure why couscous was on the menu! The highlight was definately Luca Montersino’s divine deserts.

No grocery trip is complete without a stop at a gelaterria. Eataly has a lovely homemade gelato station with a few adventurous flavours, like wine flavour gelato.

The quality of ingredients is fundamental to good Italian cooking. From 1m long pasta with pisctachio pesto to fresh organic milk, Eataly has an extensive range of high quality products on sale that have been selected with the assistance of the Slow Food Association.

Eataly provides a pleasant gastronomic experience and I recommend it to food lovers who want to buy a range of Italian food products from all over Italy. Whilst you can eat and learn about Italian products at a reasonable price, I felt this was more an added touch as oppose to an attraction on its own.

Would I go back to Eataly? Probably not. The concept is great, but there was something missing for me. I expected a more Earl’s Court  food exhibition approach where more items would be free to sample and chefs and food producers would be showcasing new recipes and cooking techniques . There are opportunities to dine with top chefs, take cooking classes or have apertivo with wine producers, but this comes at a price and only on selected days.

My small idea for Eataly: free cooking demonstrations on variations of cooking that month’s in season vegetable or fruit into a delicious dish.

Eataly – Via Nizza, 230 / 14, 0039 011 19 50 68 01, Turin – Italy

A food lover’s paradise. I knew Organic Tuscany would be the perfect place to learn the tricks to Italian cuisine as I had already been to the owners two restaurants in Barcelona, Sesamo and Mosquito.

Organic Tuscany in Certaldo runs week long or 1 day private group courses. Two of the week long courses in the year are purely vegetarian.

In Manuella’s (the chef) beautiful home, I learnt that the key to delicious food lies in the ingredients themselves. All the ingredients were locally produced and half of them were from Manuella’s garden.

We cooked: crostini with goat cheese and marinated bell peppers, crostini with eggplant and herbs, fresh fettuccine, zucchini risotto, grilled melanzane alla parmigiana, fresh fig crumble and plum crumble.

What differentiates this cooking course to others I have done is not only the superb quality  but also the environment in which you do it in. Manuella and Tina who run the course are so friendly and welcome you into their homes with open arms. They are very flexible and also quite entertaining. When it came to eating the outcome of our course, it really felt like we were having a big Italian family meal as Tina’s children also joined us.

If you are in Tuscany and you love food, then Organic Tuscany is a must. It was definitely the highlight of my Tuscan adventure!

www.organictuscany.org