I had been talking about this trip for almost a year and before I knew it I was on the plane to one of the most exciting World Cups I think I will ever experience.  This time it’s for Africa. The spot light was on Ghana and everyone was hoping, praying, dreaming that this time an African team would make it at least to the semi finals. 

July 2nd 2010, Ghana vs. Uruguay. I am not exactly a football expert nor even an amateur, but this has to be one of the best atmosphere’s I have ever experienced in a stadium. Practically everyone I knew asked me to get them a vuvuzela. I really had no idea what all the fuss was all about. From the second I caught sight of Soccer City in Joburg all I could see, hear and feel were vuvuzelas. A loud constant horn coming from these plastic instruments in all sizes and colours decorated with every single African flag. I felt like I had a vuvuzela in my stomach and my whole body was pounding with this horn sound!

This was not a game just about Ghana vs. Uruguay. This was a game representing every single African nation. A scan across the stadium and every flag, every face painted, every vuvuzela was an African one. Ok there were about 50 Uruguayans..but clearly the minority amongst 90,000 fans! This was the first time I ever felt that a continent was so united, through every pass, through every miss and through ever chance. This was Africa’s chance.

Just before half time Ghana scored. After numerous tries they did it! And that was the most amazing feeling. The happiness across everyone’s face was incredible. I had horns blowing in all directions and within seconds there were African dancers dancing to Waka Waka.  Ghana left the first half in a very positive light, a sense of relief and strong optimism before the second half.

When Uruguay scored after half time, the stadium came to a holt. A horrible shock and sudden silence filled the stadium. It was a vuvuzela stopper. After 30 minutes of extra time, Africa’s football destiny was in the hands of nerve wracking penalties. I was so scared I could barely watch the strikers. The supporters stood united; it felt like the whole stadium was holding hands in a round circle, hoping and praying for every Ghanaian striker. And when Ghana’s last striker missed it felt like the circle broke and the hearts, dreams and hopes of every African nation was shattered.

Leaving the stadium was so depressing. The vuvuzela horn was almost no where to be heard. However those few great spirited supporters still blew their horn to salute Ghana for their great effort and perseverance.

Elizabeth Gilbert could have extended her stay in Italy and prayed and loved there too…you don’t need to go all the way to India to pray and Indonesia to love! Rome was love at first sight for me. There really is no other city that compares to a walking museum of breath taking monuments and ruins. In Rome you don’t need to go to a certain place to find something historic, or find a great restaurant, or people watch. Where ever you go you will be marvelled by Rome’s extraordinary beauty. The best part of Christian Bonetto’s Lonely Planet guide on Rome is, “ditch the guidebook, slip into a laneway and trust where the city takes you”

My 4 day Roman affair was more influenced by my taste buds and my moods as oppose to a very structured perfect itinerary.

Day 1

On arrival in Rome and after relaxing in our boutique hotel Prime Hotel Saint John (near the Colosseo) my first mission was to eat! After walking around the area, and ignoring any place where we saw a Nikon or Canon camera DSLR resting on a Rome guide book, we found a great very local Roman bakery, Panificio Sanchini (Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano, 26/32, 0039670476020). Wow, the focaccia’s were delicious…very thin base with fresh tomatoes and finely chopped parsley marinated in garlic, olive oil and chili. Totally hit the right spot!

Just a 10 minute walk away and there you have it a Roman masterpiece like none other: the Colosseo built in 70 to 82 AD. History buff or not I highly recommend getting a guide here. To appreciate the scale and significance of the Colosseo there is no better way than having a guide explain this to you. The added advantage of this is you get to jump the really long queues and can get access into the Forum as well.

The beauty of Rome is that after seeing one masterpiece you have little time to absorb it as a few foot steps later you are presented with yet another jaw dropping work of art. For me the Roman Forum was truly magical. Every day Romans drive past a complex of ruins, temples and basilicas, which make up the 21st Century Roman landscape and vistas. Give yourself at least 2 hours to wander and explore.

There is perhaps no other city in the world where the 10 commandments have been adapted to motor vehicles. One shall not show off in one’s car, use it as an occasion of sinning or abuse it as an expression of power and domination. Vatican city, a sovereign state of its own, is an absolute must. We had booked an appointment for 20.00 at the Vatican museum, which is a perfect time limited to few tourists and an opportunity to view the St Peters Basilica with the backdrop of candles and a stunning sunset.

I had read about it at school, watched programs about the genius Michaelangelo, but never had I thought I would stand in the centre of the Sistine Chapel and be surrounded by and overwhelmed by the great works of  Michaelangelo. No need to get a guide here…I am almost certain there will be a passionate American Catholic, who will be more than willing to share their knowledge with you.

After the Colosseo, Roman Forum and Vatican museum my stomach was crying and before I knew I found myself in L’Archetto (Via dell’Archetto, 26, 003966789064) on a side street near the Trevi fountain.

114 types of spaghetti and 38 pizzas organised under creative headings infused with ingredients from vodka to walnuts! For starters we had a collection of typical Roman fried vegetables. Greasing our stomachs we enjoyed delicious spaghetti and reflected on a great day!

To end the first day in Rome and my last day as 25, we walked a few streets down to the Trevi fountain. I was shocked both by its beauty and the number of people sprawling themselves on and around the fountain. At midnight, with my back towards Trevi fountain I wished away 25 and welcomed 26, throwing a coin backwards into the fountain. I know that is pretty cheesy…but in the moment it was perfect!

Day 2

Bursting with energy and the desire to explore Rome, our first stop was the Pantheon. One thing I really appreciate about Rome is that most of the places you visit are interlinked. In the Vatican Museum I was stunned by Raphael’s famous School of Athens painting and in the Pantheon I was paying my respect at his tomb. The dome of this temple turned church is really breath taking. I would love to be inside the Pantheon when it is raining and see the rain fall through the centre of the dome into what I imagine a long column.

Just a few metres away lies Piazza Navona, which sits on the ruins of an ancient arena. A great rest spot, sitting by the fountains and absorbing the atmosphere before hitting the next spot.

When in Rome do as the Romans do. Well I went with a Milanese, met up with another Milanese, and her Roman boyfriend showed us how to eat Cacio e Pepe like the Romans do. We headed to Piazza Venezia to wait for my friends, but got a little distracted, by Victor Emmanuel‘s enormous monument. Climbing right to the top of the monument and looking down on Rome was quite an experience.

My friends took us to a very local restaurant Cacio e Pepe in Prati, (Via Avezzana, 11, 003963217268). The size of the restaurant grew or shrunk  depending on whether its neighbouring businesses were open. Luckily the post office was closed so the restaurant was extended on to the foot steps of the postal office! Simple, tasty and a really true Roman experience. I never knew home made egg spaghetti with cheese and pepper could be so delicious. A lazy roman lunch requires a good marochino to follow. So we drove up Gianicolo hill, and enjoyed a great marochino and took in Rome’s beautiful view from it’s highest hill.

I love small boutiques and local artists who scatter their work in less commercial places. So my friends dropped us off in Monti where we walked through the shaded streets and went from boutique to boutique.

Rome in June can get very hot, and if like me you have a certain threshold for heat, find your nearest museum and I guarantee you there will most likely be a great exhibition you can enjoy under air conditioning. We were lucky enough to see Mimmo Jodice’s great photography at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni.

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To end a great birthday I was taken to probably one of the best restaurants I have been to in Italy, Enoteca Ferrara (Piazzu Trilussa 41 – Via del Moro 1/A, 0039658333920), in the heart of bustling Trastevere. I have to admit when I first entered I thought is that it…is this where I am celebrating my birthday? But then we went down a few steps and up a stair case to find a beautiful elegant earthy restaurant. The waiter put what looked liked 2 times the size of my sister’s wedding album on the table. No photos, but a carefully selected list of Italian wines. I could write pages about how good the food was…but I will not spoil the surprise for you. All I can say is that I normally do not enjoy gnocchi, but I tried Ferrara’s gnocchi with truffles and I was literally transported to another world. A meal I will remember for the rest of my life. As you can imagine the deserts were fantastic..from crepes stuffed with hot apricots to light fluffy lemon mouse cheese cakes. Even if you don’t go to the Pantheon..go to Ferrara!

Day 3

After endless walking, hot weather and breath taking sites, we needed some time out. We needed a lazy Sunday that started off with  a delicious brunch. A friend had recommended Gusto (Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9, 003963226273) to me, which reminded me of a mix of Indian, Brazilian and Italian culture.

Pick up a steel plate (Thali), choose from a wide selection of Italian food, fresh salads, vegetables and meat, and then weigh your “thali” in the Brazilian per kilo style at the counter. The atmosphere at Gusto is great, uplifting and light, with a mix of locals, artists painting away, and yes a few tourists. A great lazy brunch.

A lazy Sunday brunch has to be followed by a gelato. I am really picky with gelato and settle for non other than the best. So I did my research and headed to Ciampini (Piazza S Lorenzo in Lucina, 29, 003966876606). Just to not make ourselves feel guilty on the cultural front we walked over to the Spanish steps and indulged in our gelatos. As great as the steps are I was distracted by my creamy soft pistachio gelato, which  I am sad to say is better than my favourite gelaterias in Milan. After absorbing the grandness of the steps  we followed the Channel and Gucci bags down Via dei Condotti to get a glimpse of Rome’s home to fashionistas.

A perfect Sunday requires a siesta in a good park and so we headed to Villa Borghese and fell asleep in the huge park surrounding the Villa. Unfortunately we did not get to go into the Villa, which I have heard is well worth it. Make sure you book a few weeks in advance for the Villa Borghese, especially during the peak season.

Day 4

I am not a Catholic nor  am  I religious, so it is quite strange that my Roman affair started at the Vatican City and ended there. I spent the last day actually in Vatican city, absorbing the beauty and symbolism of St Peter’s Square and the St Peter’s Basilica. It is an absolute must to get a guide in St Peter’s Basilica, one of the most important places of worship for Catholics. The stories behind each statue, wall and painting is really incredible. You can easily spend hours and hours here. In hind sight I wish I had booked tickets for the Vatican gardens in advance…no doubt they would be beautiful.

My Roman affair ended with a last rendezvouz with my creamy light pistachio gelato near the Spanish steps.  The thought of going back to Milan almost made me cry. Rome is just Rome. Beautiful and breath taking in every sense.

A hard day of work and all you want to do is get a good take away pizza, enjoy a Coke and watch an episode of Desperate Housewives. What could brighten up my day more than going to my local pizzeria and getting a simple yet delicious pizza?  I remember the day’s when I used to go to Papa Js’ or Pizza Hut in London, and it was a quick pizza popped into a cardboard box, and in hind sight it was horrible!

Quite a different experience in Milan at Fratelli la Buffala, my local pizzeria. I chat away to the friendly staff in the pizzeria as I wait for my pizza. When I get home I open the box and the oh so sweet chef made my pizza in the shape of a heart. Can you imagine Pizza Hut doing that?

Italians love their food and they are so passionate. Mix great food, passion and a cute chef and you have a heart shaped pizza!

“Istanbul’s number one problem: choc traffic” says every single taxi driver in this over crowded city. As beautiful as Istanbul is, there is only so much traffic and people I can take at any one point in time. Just one hour away from the city lies a tranquil retreat, Saklikoy, in the district of Beykoz.

Saklikoy is the perfect place for anyone who wants to escape the city, indulge in nature and excellent organic food, and quite simply chill out! Saklikoy has all the activities under the sun; from horse riding to swimming to a make believe medieval dinner village.

What impressed me most about Saklikoy was the food. For breakfast I enjoyed a homemade muselli with dried figs, walnuts, raisons and apricots; followed by a spread of cheeses, olives, salads and freshly baked breads.

Whilst at Saklikoy I was lucky enough to experience probably the best barbeque I have ever had. Normally a barbeque not hosted by myself is limited to some veggie burgers, vegetable skewers and one or two salads. Not a Saklikoy! I felt like the barbeque was designed with me in mind. An endless table of Turkish salads both hot and cold, fresh vegetables cooked in various sauces, cheeses after cheeses, fresh brown bread with olives. My favourite Turkish dish kisir (Turkish Tabbouleh) was by far the highlight! Each dish was fresh, made with organic ingredients and most importantly both pleasing to the eye and even tastier for my tongue.

I came back to Istanbul feeling really rejuvenated and relaxed. Having breakfast at my hotel in Istanbul was very much a disappointment. Perhaps I was too spoilt with the organic food at Saklikoy.

Like all great places, you pay for what you get. I was lucky enough to get treated to my experience at Saklikoy. Judging from the crowd, the exclusiveness of the place and the extensive activities,  I expect the prices to be above your average hotel prices.

Villa Saklıköy, Göksu Evleri No:A15/a , 00900216 465 17 87, Beykoz - Istanbul

(My view whilst sipping a refreshing Martini)

At the 19th century Misir Apartment on Istikal Street, those who are in the know, wait for their turn to fit inside this ever so small elevator that takes you up to the hip and happening roof top bar and restaurant 360. A scan along the cue at any one point in time and you can find: Little Miss Prada, the casual traveller, a group of Turkish guys going for after work drinks or an old yet stylish couple. Basically anyone! Whether it is a romantic meal whilst absorbing the stunning view, or raving it up after midnight to some great music, 360 is a place to see and to be seen!

(Picture – courtesy of 360)

Whilst some go to 360 for its international cuisine, coming from London and being spoilt by Italian cuisine, I would say the food is average. 360′s glass and steel bar and stylish interiors makes for a great place to enjoy drinks. Just imagine sipping a Martini with the backdrop of the Bosphorus, the Sea of Marmara and Hagia Sofia. The best views are obviously from the terrace, so book in advance or arrive early. If you want a good night out during the weekend, stay on to the early hours to enjoy either live music or most likely electro-funk DJs.

For such a great view and a stylish ambience, you can imagine 360 is slightly more expensive than your average Turkish bar and restaurant. For a Londoner or a Milanese, prices are probably in line with your average night out.

360, Misir Apartment Building, Istiklal Caddesi 32/311, 0090 212 251 10 42 – 43,  Istanbul – Turkey

I recently attended a web seminar on Food and Travel hosted by Waitrose, Tripbod and Slow Food. I thought that I was one of the few who obsesses about food when travelling. It turns out that tasting local food, which is produced and sourced locally is becoming a must experience even for the average traveller.

To find the best Italian products under one roof, I headed to Eataly in Turin. In Oscar Farinetti’s open planned space, I felt like I was doing my Saturday morning grocery shopping at an open market in a piazza. The difference  was that at Eataly I had an extensive choice of products with information about the region and supplier of the products. I  also got to taste the end product of some of the ingredients I was buying at Eataly’s eight themed food stations.  However I was not impressed with the vegetable food station. Not quite sure why couscous was on the menu! The highlight was definately Luca Montersino’s divine deserts.

No grocery trip is complete without a stop at a gelaterria. Eataly has a lovely homemade gelato station with a few adventurous flavours, like wine flavour gelato.

The quality of ingredients is fundamental to good Italian cooking. From 1m long pasta with pisctachio pesto to fresh organic milk, Eataly has an extensive range of high quality products on sale that have been selected with the assistance of the Slow Food Association.

Eataly provides a pleasant gastronomic experience and I recommend it to food lovers who want to buy a range of Italian food products from all over Italy. Whilst you can eat and learn about Italian products at a reasonable price, I felt this was more an added touch as oppose to an attraction on its own.

Would I go back to Eataly? Probably not. The concept is great, but there was something missing for me. I expected a more Earl’s Court  food exhibition approach where more items would be free to sample and chefs and food producers would be showcasing new recipes and cooking techniques . There are opportunities to dine with top chefs, take cooking classes or have apertivo with wine producers, but this comes at a price and only on selected days.

My small idea for Eataly: free cooking demonstrations on variations of cooking that month’s in season vegetable or fruit into a delicious dish.

Eataly – Via Nizza, 230 / 14, 0039 011 19 50 68 01, Turin – Italy

A food lover’s paradise. I knew Organic Tuscany would be the perfect place to learn the tricks to Italian cuisine as I had already been to the owners two restaurants in Barcelona, Sesamo and Mosquito.

Organic Tuscany in Certaldo runs week long or 1 day private group courses. Two of the week long courses in the year are purely vegetarian.

In Manuella’s (the chef) beautiful home, I learnt that the key to delicious food lies in the ingredients themselves. All the ingredients were locally produced and half of them were from Manuella’s garden.

We cooked: crostini with goat cheese and marinated bell peppers, crostini with eggplant and herbs, fresh fettuccine, zucchini risotto, grilled melanzane alla parmigiana, fresh fig crumble and plum crumble.

What differentiates this cooking course to others I have done is not only the superb quality  but also the environment in which you do it in. Manuella and Tina who run the course are so friendly and welcome you into their homes with open arms. They are very flexible and also quite entertaining. When it came to eating the outcome of our course, it really felt like we were having a big Italian family meal as Tina’s children also joined us.

If you are in Tuscany and you love food, then Organic Tuscany is a must. It was definitely the highlight of my Tuscan adventure!

www.organictuscany.org

I was hoping for a quiet Sunday afternoon in Istanbul. Somehow I managed to get stuck amongst a political protest of 1000 students marching down Istikal street. Luckily I came across a bistro, that to my surprise once I entered was also a book  shop. Upon entering Ada I felt like I was on another street in a different city, and far far away from the political mayhem a metre outside the doors of this stylish modern book shop come bistro.

A perfect place for a single traveler, a kitap club (book club), friends catching up, or a family out for a Sunday brunch.

The food at Ada is great, especially if you have had enough of mezze and kebabs! I had a delicious vegetable noodles dish.

Note that the majority of books are in Turkish. So if you are looking to pick up a book to read, I suggest you go a few doors down to Robinson Crusoe 389 and pick up a book on Turkey in original language, and enjoy it at Ada.

What better way to spend a sunday afternoon, reading a good book whilst enjoying an Anatolian wine, eating some international food and relaxing against the back drop of jazz. Ada is all about the full experience, don’t just go there for the food or just the books. Enjoy both and you will not want to leave until you have finished your book!

Ada, Istikal Cd No: 158-A, Beyoglu, 00902122514728, Istanbul

A perfect Sunday afternoon. A friend and I were looking for a good brunch with vegetarian options for less than the standard Milano rate of 30 Euros, where we could just chill out, wear our lounge wear and have a great catch up in an unpretentious environment. And we found just that and more at Frida in Isola.

From the moment I entered the restaurant, I was brought back to my year in Barcelona. This place was so Bohemian I felt like I was in Gracia or Raval in Barcelona. Brightly coloured walls and furniture, funky lights and a general minimalistic yet creative look.

Most places in Milan charge a 3 euro cover charge just to sit at the restaurant. Frida charges 2.50 euros and with that you get endless tea/coffee and marmalades with bread. The brunch menu has a range of options from fresh fruit, yogurt, savoury or sweet crepes, pancakes, cakes and smoothies. I had a delicious crepe filled with mushroom, cheese and nuts.

If you have a sweet tooth I suggest the American pancake with fresh fruit and cream.

The frullato (fruit smoothie) is excellent and fresh, and makes you feel a bit better if you opt for the white chocolate cake with fresh strawberries, fatto in casa. I spent just 15 Euros on an excellent brunch. Frida also does a lunch and dinner menu. Check out their website for more details.

But Frida is not just a restaurant or just a bar that spreads a good aperitivo in the evening, nor just a place with live chill out music on a Sunday evening.  Stefania Fulghesu, Francesco Comi, Marco Bozzetto and Davide Negrini have created a concept.

Cross the terrace of the restaurant and you will find an intriguing shop, with three main rooms. One dedicated to vintage clothes and accessories from the 1950 – 80s, the other to biological and eco friendly products, and the other to artisan goods.

I was surprised to see brands like People Tree (fair trade and organic clothing) and Beyond Skin (vegan shoes), amongst a range of Italian products.

The layout of the shop is great, where characteristic furniture is used to showcase individual items, for example jewellery hanging out of baroque wardrobes and shoes hanging on an old Singer sewing machine.

Above this bohemian shop, is a studio where one can take courses in Tango, Yoga, Pilates or theatre.

To understand the concept of Frida one must really visit it. I am sure the atmosphere somewhat changes from Sunday brunch to a Saturday evening aperitivo. Either way I can confidently say whenever you go you should have a positive experience  if you enjoy unpretentious places that have good quality food at decent prices, friendly staff and products with thought and style.

If your style is similar to that of Just Cavalli Bar then you can give Frida miss.

Frida, Via Pollaiuolo, 3, 00392680260, Milan – Italy

I was told it was an absolute must. Strip naked, get scrubbed by an old Turkish woman, watch layers of dead skin fall off you, and try to hide your private parts as fellow women get scrubbed the traditional Turkish way. And what an experience it was. I had my first Hamam treatment at Cagaloglu Hamami in Istanbul, which was built over three centuries ago. The Hamam itself  is beautiful and well maintained.

However my experience on the whole was not such a positive one. As soon as you enter the Hamam you realise you have entered a tourist trap. The idea of someone bathing you is quite a luxurious one, so my expectations are to have that in a luxurious environment and really feel pampered.

When in the Hamam, you almost feel like you are in a production line waiting in the que to get scrubbed. When its your turn you lie down on a marble slab which goes around the Hamam, with your toes touching someonelses head and your head being massaged by someones else foot.

Determined to have a good Spa Experience, I decided to go up a notch or two, and hit the Four Seasons Spa in Istanbul. What a difference! Quality and luxury is the essence of the spa, though it comes at a price. The spa is a converted 19th century Ottoman Palace on the banks of the Bosphorus.

A great experience, however I would not go back, purely because its expensive and I have now found my favourite Spa in Istanbul.

Anantara Spa, at the top of Astoria Mall in Istanbul’s most prominent business district and in the same tower as the Kempinski residences, is everything I want from a spa experience. The menu of  treatments is extensive catering for everyones needs, from Turkish to Aryuvedic treatments.

Each treatment room has a theme, is carefully thought through and really makes you forget absolutely everything. Whatever treatment you have the spa has a ritual of first scrubbing your feet and washing them with rose petals.

What particularly attracts me to this spa, is the feng shui, the lighting, the music and most importantly the service and quality of the treatments.

Although quite pricey, I recommend it as the experience and the treatments are worth it!