Archive | Restaurants

Kosebasi, Istanbul: Vegetarians and Carnivores love it!

6 Turkish cities, a dip in the sea and a hammam treatment later I have finally managed to sit down in front of my lap top. Last weekend my parents came to visit me in Istanbul. Where do you take a mother who is an incredible cook and a father who has high food standards? In the city of kebabs I needed to find a great vegetarian option that would impress my parents.

So I took them to Kosebasi, one of my favourite restaurants in Istanbul. On paper Kosebasi is not the restaurant I would normally pick: a Turkish chain restaurant famous for its kebab. In reality it is an elegant South Anatolian restaurant, pleasing both vegetarians and carnivores.

Before getting a chance to look at the menu, a waiter brought a wide selection of mezzes for us to choose from. They all looked so fresh and colourful. The Turkish salad - toros was to die for. Finely chopped parsley, rocket, mint and tomatoes in a mix of spices and sour pomegranate sauce with hot nan/puffed bread.

We filled ourselves on eggplant in a yogurt sauce, fresh green peppers, kisir (cracked wheat) and Turkish pastries.

For main course admittedly there is not much variety for vegetarians. Nevertheless the chef made us Turkish style pizza stuffed with smoked aubergine, which we enjoyed with fresh Ayran (Turkish equivalent of lassi). My mum was in heaven. For my mum the smoked aubergine was like eating Indian baingan bharta, and the “Turkish pizza” was like Indian rotlo. My mum was determined to learn the recipe for this dish!

For desert we indulged in a semolina halvah stuffed with ice cream and a rice pudding very similar to the Indian kheer. For the rest of the trip my mum compared every meal to this one! If you plan to go to Kosebasi don’t go on the first night, as every meal after may be a disappointment.

If you are a carnivore every Turkish person will tell you that Kosebasi is a great place. If you are a vegetarian, trust me the mezzes are the best in town. Kosebasi is quite pricey for Turkish standards, but given the great food and the elegant local atmosphere I think its totally worth it. Make sure to book in advance.

Kosebasi, Çamlık Sokak No:15 3.Levent,  00902122702433, Istanbul – Turkey

Posted in Turkey - Restaurants

Dresscholic, Istanbul: A dress for every occasion

Ever found yourself in a situation where you desperately need a dress for that oh so important event, but frustrated that your choice of dresses is limited? Even if you find a potential dress, your breasts don’t quite fill it, or the length is just not right, or 20% of the crowd is most likely to have seen that dress on their very same dress hunt?

I know how you feel. Luckily I now shop in Istanbul and have found a boutique that makes one off dresses for dresscholic girls. If you want heads to turn, I am certain Dresscholic will have a dress for you.

On a first look the collection of dresses may look a bit extravagant, bold and daring. Look a bit closer and you can find some elegant items that are stylish yet more modest.

Dresscholic in Nisantasi is surrounded by a number of boutiques. The other boutiques in Nisantasi also have great dresses, but are more up market and snobbish in both their display and service.

I am a sucker for service and Dresscholic trumps its rivals on this matter. When in Dresscholic I felt like I was on a girls day out (even though I was alone!).  Esra the designer and owner gave me, the uncertain potentially annoying customer, all the attention I wanted.  As I changed from one dress to another in the very pink and girly changing room, Esra snapped away taking pictures of me so I could send them to my mum. Within 5 minutes a tailor came to alter my choosen dress and make it look like it was designed with my measurements in mind. I just need to wait 4 days for the alterations and then I can turn some heads in Milan!

If you are in Istanbul check out Dresscholic.  You can find a lovely dress for about £150. There is always an occasion to look good, stylish and stand out from the crowd. 

Dresscholic, Ihlamur yalu Sak. No 9/1 A Tesvikiye, 00902122967601, Istanbul – Turkey

Posted in Turkey - Restaurants

Zucca e Melone, Milan: Like eating at your best friend’s country house

Zucca e Melone is where the idea of Travellers’ Places was born. It  is exactly this type of restaurant that inspired me to write about the unique places I have stumbled upon. Be it lunch or dinner, it is always such a pleasure to eat at Zucca e Melone. Christina and Miriam, the owners are so warm and friendly that I always feel like I am at their country home and they are my delightful hosts serving me delicious regional food.

Zucca e Melone ticks all my boxes. Cosy and rustic atmosphere, yet refreshing as Spring. Excellent hospitality. A good range of delicious vegetarian choices. Reasonable price. No wonder I keep on coming back!

All the dishes are great, but if I had to choose two then it would have to be 1) pear, cheese and pistachio risotto. 2) pumpkin soup with a dash of ricotta.

Zucca e Melone is simply a must. If you tell them you know the British Indian girl with her big camera, I am almost certain Christina and Miriam will be delighted to host you in their country kitchen.

Via Gian Giacomo Mora 3, 0039289455850, Milan – Italy

Posted in Italy - Restaurants

Ostarie Vecio Friul, Milan

In the back streets of Sempione, quite close to Paolo Sarpi I was taken to a very cute, small Friulian osteria. From first impressions it may not be obvious just how good the food is.

Julian the owner is a serious connoisseur of the Friulian wines, cheeses and cold cut meats. Tell him your tastes and he will prepare a platter of his finest cheeses and will match the wine accordingly.

Absolute must is the risotto with Gorgonzola, nuts and rosemary. Each bite melts in your mouth as the risotto is so creamy. The rosemary gives a beautiful fragrance and subtle kick to the dish.

For desert I recommend either the chocolate crostini with pistachios or with pine nuts and apricot. The chocolate in both the crostini’s is fresh, dense and intense.

If you do not like cheese then this may not be the best place for you, as the osteria houses some quite strong smelling (though delicious) cheeses.

Well priced, excellent service, informal ambiance and superb food.

Ostarie Vecio Friul, Via Rosmini 5, 0039233601498, Milan – Italy

 

Posted in Italy - Restaurants

Brunch, aperitivo and shop at Frida, Milan

A perfect Sunday afternoon. A friend and I were looking for a good brunch with vegetarian options for less than the standard Milano rate of 30 Euros, where we could just chill out, wear our lounge wear and have a great catch up in an unpretentious environment. And we found just that and more at Frida in Isola.

From the moment I entered the restaurant, I was brought back to my year in Barcelona. This place was so Bohemian I felt like I was in Gracia or Raval in Barcelona. Brightly coloured walls and furniture, funky lights and a general minimalistic yet creative look.

Most places in Milan charge a 3 euro cover charge just to sit at the restaurant. Frida charges 2.50 euros and with that you get endless tea/coffee and marmalades with bread. The brunch menu has a range of options from fresh fruit, yogurt, savoury or sweet crepes, pancakes, cakes and smoothies. I had a delicious crepe filled with mushroom, cheese and nuts.

If you have a sweet tooth I suggest the American pancake with fresh fruit and cream.

The frullato (fruit smoothie) is excellent and fresh, and makes you feel a bit better if you opt for the white chocolate cake with fresh strawberries, fatto in casa. I spent just 15 Euros on an excellent brunch. Frida also does a lunch and dinner menu. Check out their website for more details.

But Frida is not just a restaurant or just a bar that spreads a good aperitivo in the evening, nor just a place with live chill out music on a Sunday evening.  Stefania Fulghesu, Francesco Comi, Marco Bozzetto and Davide Negrini have created a concept.

Cross the terrace of the restaurant and you will find an intriguing shop, with three main rooms. One dedicated to vintage clothes and accessories from the 1950 – 80s, the other to biological and eco friendly products, and the other to artisan goods.

I was surprised to see brands like People Tree (fair trade and organic clothing) and Beyond Skin (vegan shoes), amongst a range of Italian products.

The layout of the shop is great, where characteristic furniture is used to showcase individual items, for example jewellery hanging out of baroque wardrobes and shoes hanging on an old Singer sewing machine.

Above this bohemian shop, is a studio where one can take courses in Tango, Yoga, Pilates or theatre.

To understand the concept of Frida one must really visit it. I am sure the atmosphere somewhat changes from Sunday brunch to a Saturday evening aperitivo. Either way I can confidently say whenever you go you should have a positive experience  if you enjoy unpretentious places that have good quality food at decent prices, friendly staff and products with thought and style.

If your style is similar to that of Just Cavalli Bar then you can give Frida miss.

Frida, Via Pollaiuolo, 3, 00392680260, Milan – Italy

Posted in Experiences, Restaurants

Pizza Biagio, Milan

Quick, tasty and cheap. And for that reason, every time I have been to Pizza Biagio there has always been a queue outside the restaurant, even when its raining!

Biagio is a Napolean pizzeria, rustic and small, with tables covered with traditional red and white checked tablecloth. Its one of those places that is so good that you will find a mix of locals, international students and even models.

The pizzas made in a wooden oven with fresh ingredients are excellent, but the service is not the best. Note – Biagio do not accept cards.

For desert, I suggest you walk a few metres down to Chocolat on via Boccaccio, 9. One of the best gelaterias in Milan.

Pizza Biagio, Vincenzo Monti, 28, Milan - Italy

Posted in Italy - Restaurants

Capanna Carla, Gressoney – Val D’Aosta, Italy

After a cold day in the snow, Capanna Carla in Gressoney – La – Trinite, is a perfect place to enjoy a warm hearty meal in an atmosphere that is so homely you feel like you are at your grandmother’s house for dinner.

 

Low wooden beam ceilings, narrow corridors, pots and pans lining the stair case and walls decorated with tapisseries dating 1800 fill this beautiful chalet looking building dated 1600.  With the negative temperatures outside you simply don’t want to leave Capanna Carla.

For starters I recommend the chestnuts in a mild honey sauce or the goats cheese with a hot chicory gravy. Both are delicious, and quite light on the stomach.

The zuppa valdostana is very typical of the area and is not what one expects of a soup. As oppose to a liquid soup, the zuppa is an ensemble of bread, cabbage and fontina cheese. It may not sound tempting, but trust me it hits the spot!

The combination of the cheese and cabbage gives a very rich taste. The dish itself is quite heavy and very warming - a perfect dish if you have spent the day skiing.

For desert the chocolate cake is just divine. It is not just a cake, but layers of chocolate in different textures from mouse to cake to small balls of chocolate. So light and fluffy I could have easily of had two!

The other deserts look delcious too, or that is what it seemed like from the tables near by!

If you are in the area and have a car, Capanna Carla is a must. Food, ambiance, service and value for money all rank very highly. What more could you want?

Capanna Carla, Loc Ciaval, 33, 11020 Gressoney-La-Trinite, 0039125366130, Val D’Aosta – Italy

Posted in Italy - Restaurants

Cinghiale Rosso, Milan

I have been to this hidden Enoteca in Garibaldi 3 times, and the 4th time I took 5 Italians with high culinary tastes and 9 British Indians who were novice to beautifully selected wines and mouth watering cheeses. All 14 loved it! Cinghiale Rosso is one of my favourite places in Milan. It is an enoteca that is a hidden gem, warm and cosy and so inviting that you can spend hours and hours here.  The atmosphere is almost perfect for a date but at the same time perfect for a group of friends or family.

Cinghiale Rosso is the opposite of most places in Milan, where service is poor, prices are more expensive than London, and people are people watching. Each time I have been to Cinghiale Rosso, I have been given great advise from the owner on which wine to choose from their endless list and which selection of cheeses I should match with it. The cheeses which are combined with fresh jams are divine. My favourite is the mozarella di bufala oozing with cream.

Though it is not just all about wines and cheeses. The artichoke salad is the best I have tried in Milan; a simple mix of carefully selected ingredients. In addition the Roman salad (I have still not figured out what the vegetable is in English) though slightly bitter is a refreshing taste on the palette. The mains (the pumpkin lasagna and black rice) are not much to boast about. However deserts absolutely are! You can not leave here without trying the Tiramisu with Moscata wine or the Salame de Chocolate (salumi shape slices of chocolate and nuts).

All the deserts are great but those two are my favourite. You can choose your desert with or without a desert wine.

All in all an absolute must, a warm and cosy atmosphere with delicious wines, cheeses, salads and deserts. Excellent service and great value for money.

Cinghiale Rosso, Viale Monte Grappa 6a, 00392 87386336, Milan - Italy

Posted in Italy - Restaurants